Considering switching to the straight razor.

[UncleBoots]

I bought a straight razor blank out of a magazine. Finished it out and sharpened.

Also dropped the thing on my foot while in the shower.

Antique shops always had a few straight razors. Top line German was around $30 bucks. $45 if it had gold inlay. Average $15 each for the common ones. The blank, if I remember right, $4(?) It wasn't more then $8(?).

Everything was done on the blade but polishing the blade, sharpening, and needing a guard. So I've had my go at a straight razor. 19 year old kid.

Then went to the double sided not long after. Safety razor. Which I've used for years. There's a reason why it's called a Safety Razor. It's not just your face. It's fingers and feet safe.

Straight razor Rule #1: Never shave naked

 

[Grasshopperglock]

Straight razor Rule #1: Never shave naked

I shave in the shower so I don't get the bathroom sink full of razor stubble hair.

I had a hand mirror hanging up. Going along shaving. With the soap being slick.

I dropped it. Felt a thump on my foot. Bathtub fills with red. It landed dead center between two toes.

Once is enough of that. I'm not stopping shaving in a hot shower.

 

[Tsujigiri]

I switched to a straight razor years ago because my dad gave me a good one that he bought and gave up on. Now they're all I use, and I don't plan to ever go back. They do require more time and I cut myself when I'm not careful, but it kind of elevates the experience. You're going to have to spend more than a pack of refills to get started, but I read somewhere that the average man spends something like $4k+ on disposable razors in his lifetime, so you'll come out way ahead eventually.

You'll need a good razor, not a decorative piece. There are pretty much only 3 quality production companies still making these: Thiers Issard, Dovo, and Boker (figure a little under $200 for a good full sized one). You can also buy a custom if you're willing to spend a little more or a vintage razor if you're willing to put in the time and effort.

If you're not restoring vintage razors, you should be able to get away with one large finishing stone and a levelling stone, I got a Naniwa 12k and a DMT diamond leveller. A little over $100 for the Naniwa and around $50 for the leveller IIRC.

You'll also need a good strop, which you'll use every time. That will be around $100 too.

 

[jeffbird]

You'll need a good razor, not a decorative piece. There are pretty much only 3 quality production companies still making these: Thiers Issard, Dovo, and Boker (figure a little under $200 for a good full sized one).

???? I still have a Thiers Issard sitting on the shelf. It was poorly ground resulting in a very uneven bevel and thus edge. It is beautiful, but a poor performer.

After trying about fifteen or so, Wacker stood out very noticeably from the others. A photo of my daily user, the Wacker Chevalier, is above.

The older Le Grelot P. Hospital razors are my second favorite and quite affordable. I’d recommend starting with these as they are consistent quality, easy to sharpen, affordable, and easy to use starting off.

 

[Tsujigiri]

???? I still have a Thiers Issard sitting on the shelf. It was poorly ground resulting in a very uneven bevel and thus edge. It is beautiful, but a poor performer.

After trying about fifteen or so, Wacker stood out very noticeably from the others. A photo of my daily user, the Wacker Chevalier, is above.

The older Le Grelot P. Hospital razors are my second favorite and quite affordable. I’d recommend starting with these as they are consistent quality, easy to sharpen, affordable, and easy to use starting off.

Vintage production razors were probably more consistent than what's available today, but the fact remains that the three I mentioned are the last good remaining production razor companies. Brands like Wacker and Ralf Aust are not production companies and don't have the manufacturing capability to make blades on a large scale. Both of them source their blade blanks from one of those production companies (Dovo IIRC), and do a little extra finish work on them.

 

[jeffbird]

Maybe there is a difference in semantics of "production" in our minds. Wacker grinds their own blades, it is more than just "finishing." See the video below. They produce standardized, non-custom order models. The standardized models are produced in sufficient volume to be readily available from multiple retailers including but not limited to Amazon. To me that is the same as a knife company taking steel blanks, grinding them to produce standardized models, which to me are "production" knives. fwiw - I also have an Aust, it is ok, much prefer Wacker.

Regardless, it is a currently and readily available, high quality razor.

Someone starting off probably is best served buying a two or three decent quality used razors from a vendor that specializes in straights and can ship them truly shave ready.

Either way OP, jump in and give it a try. Be patient with yourself, it is a learned skill
worth learning.

 

[greater]

I have had good luck with a large Dovo with rounded corners. It's likely second best out a good collection.

The best I have is a Filarmonica spanish made straight.

Filarmonica has a good reputation for being one of the best made straight razors but they have been out of business for quite a while and you have to find a good one on the secondary market.

There are complications when buying a Filarmonica. For a period of time Filarmonica was producing total crap razors before going back to making high quality straight razors like they used to.

You have to know if the Filarmonica straight razor was made during the time poor quality ones were being sold before buying and if so avoid them because the risk is too great of getting a lemon.

For what it's worth I have read many good things about Wacker but I have never used one.

Also I don't like using tape to protect the finish of pristine straight razors. Straights were designed to be easy to sharpen and sharpen best by laying the blade flat to work on the edge so both edge and spine wear evenly. Straights have been around very long and the design has for the most part fully evolved is well established for a reason. You will just have to get over it if you don't like your beautiful finish touched by the stones and strop.

To be fair you can probably get away with using tape for a long while but you can't forever. You edge angle will get steeper eventually.