Folding Bushcraft Knife that is usable/comfortable - by Daniel Koster

[shooter11b]

Well done Dan! Like the survey says, SIGN ME UP!

 

[nore]

I really enjoy the lack of choil, full grip idea! Hope this comes to fruition

 

[HSC ///]

i'd buy it!

 

[Jeff Jenness]

Wow! All I can say is, wow!

Edit:

Ok, after staring at this for a LONG time, I want to know dimensions. Looks like a blade at 3.7" on a handle of 4.5". That's a NICE ratio, Dan!

This is really looking like a very practical knife. Also, will you be considering a flat grind on this knife as well? Either way, a VERY unique knife and something I would love to have.

 

[Kcuff]

That does look very interesting, I would be buy one.

 

[brady.kevin07]

If you made any left hand ones I would for sure buy one. I really like your idea here :thumbup:

 

[Daniel Koster]

Thanks for all the great comments and kind words, guys. I really appreciate it. This idea has been brewing for a long time. Sometimes I still can't believe it's happening myself.

I created a Pre-Order form on my website:
http://kosterknives.com/pre-order

All I need is a name and email. I'll contact you as soon as I get it figured out. No commitment, no obligation. Just a show of interest.

Please feel free to make any suggestions. I like the discussion of stainless steels. Which ones interest you most? I'm looking very hard at S35vN. Remember, I have to be able to get this in larger quantities and it's track record has to be spotless. No "mystery carbides" or "flash-in-the-pan" steels for me.

Can we make this the official sign up ??!!

I'll post back to this thread as I keep making progress on this first official prototype. If you keep track of it...and check the first post...you'll be able to stay on top of things. :thumbup:

Good on you Dan. I look forward to seeing this come to fruition. What made you choose 3V over a high quality stainless like M390 or Elmax?

Nearly all my knives are made from 3V nowadays. I couldn't make a folder without it. That said - I'm definitely open to other steels! Just needs to be on par with 3V in terms of quality and expected performance.

id buy it, it all depends on the price! would this be hand made or milled by machine, finished by hand?
-T

It will be a combination of waterjet cut parts, CNC-router cut handle pieces and lots of milling, drilling, fitting and finishing by hand.

Very interesting! 3V is seemingly a fine choice for this one, though a good tough SS would be great as well. I'm happy to see this in the works. I hope I can afford one!

Me too!!

This looks fantastic, Dan. I completely agree about the hole in the market - I've been looking for ages for a 4" folder with a good steel, minimum handle length, which at a push can handle some abuse, but I've never found what I was looking for. Fully support the opening hole rather than thumbstuds, which hang up on deep cuts.

My only issue is with thick liners and a thick spacer, it looks like a lot of metal in the handle. Will you use Ti? If not, will you skeletonize the liners? Balance is really important to me in a knife - I like it right on the first finger in a general use blade like this, so an overly heavy handle would be a bit of a put-off.

I'll be watching this closely.

Yes - I guess I forgot to mention it - I am using Titanium for the liners. I'll update the first post.
Balance is very important to me too.

Wow! All I can say is, wow!

Edit:

Ok, after staring at this for a LONG time, I want to know dimensions. Looks like a blade at 3.7" on a handle of 4.5". That's a NICE ratio, Dan!

This is really looking like a very practical knife. Also, will you be considering a flat grind on this knife as well? Either way, a VERY unique knife and something I would love to have.

You are very close. 3.85" of blade and 4.65" of handle. I will indeed be offering a flat grind on it. Not at first, though. Gotta get this scandi going first.

If you made any left hand ones I would for sure buy one. I really like your idea here :thumbup:

I will definitely be offering both Left-handed and Right-handed options. Thanks for bringing it up. :thumbup:


Keep the comments coming. The more input I get, the more refined the design becomes. Just think how cool it will be to know that you had a part in helping design this folder!!

Dan

 

[Daniel Koster]

Pricing is a very interesting idea for knifemakers. Obviously, we all want to be paid for our work and make enough to stay in business.

But I tend to approach things a little differently as to how I achieve that.

I look at all the phases and stages of building a knife and examine which ones "pay off" and which ones don't. For example - handrubbing a blade is one of the least profitable tasks a knifemaker can do. It can take hours, cause extreme strife and yet you can't upcharge anywhere near enough to make up for it.

So, I eliminate those steps that are not profitable or find other options that are less costly. Both sides win. You get a lower price, I get to skip the migraine-inducing stuff. Obviously, anything affecting quality and performance is "holy ground" and is never up for consideration. Such as getting bevels perfectly flat....or taking time to drill slowly to not burn-out handle holes, etc. Those things usually have a very high "pay-off" though.

Anyway, I'm very interested in your ideas of what a good range for this knife would be. What's the maximum you would pay? (given what you've seen here - remember, no fancy materials) Throw some numbers at me so I can gauge interest. Remember that this knife will be capable of doing the work of several others...so you can look at it as being cheaper than that "safe queen" you've got, harder working than that thin-bladed one you've got, and better looking than some of the factory knives in your collection.

I can't make any promises on pricing yet except to say that the starting price will not be over $400. I view things like Hinderer does. Find a good price, lock it in and leave it there. The only time I've increased prices was when I had to increase features. Never "just because".

So, if the suggested pricing comes in lower than expected...I won't ignore it...I'll just find a way to make it for less. Perhaps remove a few things to make it easier/quicker.

That said, though...if you look back at the original design...you'll see that I've done a lot of that already.

Dan

 

[brady.kevin07]

I forgot to mention this in my last post here but the only thing I would like to see added to the design is a Spanish notch. It's not a deal breaker if it doesn't have one its just a personal preference thing.

 

[Daniel Koster]

I do understand. I used to put in "sharpening choils" on knives but no longer do. A big part of bushcraft/survival is cutting up cloth or sheet material (shelters, clothing, etc.) and having a choil or notch causes the material to hang up. Plus by not having it, you gain back just a little more cutting edge.

No-one has mentioned this so far....but if you look around at other factory made or even handmade knives you'll see that there is usually a significant gap between where your index finger lies on the handle behind the guard and the starting point of the edge (ie. the plunge). Not on this knife. It is designed to be as close a possible...meaning you will be able to get really close-up for detail work and hard push-cutting chores. :thumbup:

 

[facablade]

aaarrgg no I don´t need another knife.....
you are going to fire my wallet
BEAUTIFULL

 

[Bellyededge]

Really nice! I will definitely be following this thread. Any thoughts on making it a flipper?

 

[Nobody]

Though I didn't mention it, I most definitely noticed that you had designed this knife to maximize it's ability to do intricate work. Well done indeed, and not seen on many other folders!

I do understand. I used to put in "sharpening choils" on knives but no longer do. A big part of bushcraft/survival is cutting up cloth or sheet material (shelters, clothing, etc.) and having a choil or notch causes the material to hang up. Plus by not having it, you gain back just a little more cutting edge.

No-one has mentioned this so far....but if you look around at other factory made or even handmade knives you'll see that there is usually a significant gap between where your index finger lies on the handle behind the guard and the starting point of the edge (ie. the plunge). Not on this knife. It is designed to be as close a possible...meaning you will be able to get really close-up for detail work and hard push-cutting chores. :thumbup:

 

[Daniel Koster]

Thanks for the suggestion, Belleyedge. I've yet to see a flipper with a good guard/edge proximity. Most of the higher-end knives I've owned have been flippers and they are fun to use for sure. I did create a flipper version but didn't like how big the guard was compared to the overall design. Also, most bushcraft enthusiasts I've spoken to prefer less guard, not more...it does tend to get in the way with detail work. So, I went with as little guard as possible, and recessed the first-finger area more to create more of a guard on that side - without dropping it too much below the blade. (the tail wagging the dog, so to speak)

 

[Daniel Koster]

Here's a quick drawing showing the folder next to the most recent Bushcraft knife outline:

I did have to make the blade and frame just a teensy bit taller (1/16" or so) to make the folder work right. And the tip is 3/32" or so shorter. Other than that, the 2 are virtually identical.

I'm going to work on shortening all the screws down and see if I can get it fully assembled - and then I'll photograph it next to a regular bushcraft knife. :thumbup:

Dan
KosterKnives.com

 

[Daniel Koster]

I updated the first post. :thumbup:

 

[discdoggin]

Thanks for the suggestion, Belleyedge. I've yet to see a flipper with a good guard/edge proximity. Most of the higher-end knives I've owned have been flippers and they are fun to use for sure. I did create a flipper version but didn't like how big the guard was compared to the overall design. Also, most bushcraft enthusiasts I've spoken to prefer less guard, not more...it does tend to get in the way with detail work. So, I went with as little guard as possible, and recessed the first-finger area more to create more of a guard on that side - without dropping it too much below the blade. (the tail wagging the dog, so to speak)

hmmmm... Could you taper the micarta, slightly, where the first finger and thumb rests ,on the blade rest side of the handle, to create more purchase for the thumb and forefinger and eliminate the need to extend the guard or deepen the contour of the handle?

DD

 

[Daniel Koster]

Not sure I understand what you mean, DD. Can you explain? which grip are you talking about? pinch grip?

 

[discdoggin]

More or less, tapering the micarta where the forefinger would wrap about the handle in a hammer grip. Just enough so that you could cloke up a little higher. Would also aid in a chest lever grip...

DD

 

[hammeron]

Wow...my guess is that you will sell A LOT of these. Beautiful.