Help a newbie out with bluing.

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emd023

Joined
May 1, 2024
Messages
2
Hey everyone. I have some Brownells oxynate 7 bluing salts as well as some dicro-clean 909. I have a few golf clubs that I want to try this on but I had a few questions:

1. How durable will the finish be?

2. The main goal here is the color. Are there other better options than bluing that are durable?

2. Will these rust over time? Would they have to be maintained?

3. It seems my clubs are made of 303 (putter) as well as 1020, and 1025, 8620 carbon steels. Will the different types affect the outcome?

4. I am assuming these clubs have a coating. One is chrome. Would these have to be stripped before bluing?

Thank you so much!
 
The 303 is stainless. It probably won't blue.
The 10 series steels will blue. Any plating will have to be stripped before bluing.
Bluing is not a durable finish, and is prone to rusting.
 
Welcome emd023. Filling out your profile info might help with answers as location may matter.

By the nature of your questions, I think you probably don't have the understanding to do what you want. This is not a put down, but bluing is not a simple one-step task. It is also just a surface oxide that will rub away with use and wear.

First - Hot bluing with oxinate salts is not for the untrained. You can get severely injured doing it if not properly equipped and wearing the proper gear. It also takes special tanks and heating and a proper bluing shop area. It is not to be messed around with by someone in their kitchen or garage.

Second - As Fitzo noted, it isn't as simple as sticking te object in the tank and pulling it out blue. There is a lot of sanding and buffing needed before the bluing.

Last - as also pointed out, bluing is a surface oxide only and does not prevent rust. Ever see an old gun that was not oiled and cleaned well. You can see every fingerprint in rust.


There are commercial coatings that may work, but a golf club by nature takes a beating and may be a poor choice. Look up Cerakote, Gunkote, and similar coatings. In the end, a can of spray paint might be just as good.
 
JV Knives said:
If you are changing the spine thickness and the grind, that’s very similar to starting from scratch with a blank. As mentioned, steep learning curve. I would suggest practicing some technique on non important items.

Your rate of removal (progress to goal) is directly related to the abrasive belt grit and speed combined with the pressure applied. Take your time. đź‘Ť
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weo said:
Gunkote, but it'll be tough to cure it without taking the heads off the shaft.
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Cerakote is even better.
 
12345678910 said:
You gotta read.

Higgy said "heat blue"

He heats it hot with an oven or torch, the oxides form a thin very shiny light blue layer, not the same as gunsmith type deep rich rust bluing.
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I read that at first as thinking he meant a torch or oven. But the next line mentions "nitre," which brings to mind nitre salts bluing, which is a "hot" blue. I wonder if that's what he meant by saying "heat?"
 
fitzo said:
I read that at first as thinking he meant a torch or oven. But the next line mentions "nitre," which brings to mind nitre salts bluing, which is a "hot" blue. I wonder if that's what he meant by saying "heat?"
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I did see that later, but then got lost on the way back to edit.
 
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