How To San Mai forge weld delamination help!

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Aug 12, 2023
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3
Hi y’all,
I’ve been trying to get forge welds down to do some san mai but have been running into a rather consistent problem:

I keep getting these small delaminations either towards the end of forging to shape or during thermal cycling- they show up when I’m cleaning up/grinding the edge and are about a centimeter in length.

Here’s a pic for reference:

Steel is 52100 (.094”) core w/ 1018 (1/8”) clad. I’m using a double burner hells forge that I’m pretty sure is getting to welding heat and is reducing (orange flames coming off about 12”)

I clean the metal, tack the billet, into the forge. At orange heat I add borax and back into heat. Once at welding heat (bright lemon is where I take it to), pull it out and light tap, brush, more borax, back into heat. I do this 2-3 times then move onto the power hammer. I start forging at close to welding heat and then I kind of naturally will forge cooler to bright orange. My hammer is diy with mining rail peices as the die. They’re like a combination of flat and drawing die and work decent to get the billet to the desired taper/length I want it. Then I’ll let the billet cool and cut off the rebar and cut a little notch to form the tang. Back in the forge to finish the tang, little more taper with the hammer and stamp. By this point I’ve now usually gotten no visible delams. Then i thermal cycle 1650 for 10min, 1460 for 30, and finally 1460 for 30 & slow cool to 1260. Usually here is where I will notice the delaminations. If not here, then after quenching (1475 10 min into parks 50) I’ll notice them.

I’m kind of lost on what to do as obviously somewhere in my process I’m doing something wrong and it’s driving me nuts that I can’t get it right! I’ve thought that maybe I’m using too much Borax as I do use quite a lot out of fear of delamination (lol) and read on another post to try without any borax to get a stronger weld. Or maybe I’m starting with too thin of steel? I get about 90% of the billet welded but that small 10% just won’t stick! Lol.

Please, any help would be so greatly appreciated! I can be more thorough if clarification is needed 🙏

Thanks,

Andrew
 
I’m no expert and haven’t done forge welding a lot, I rarely get a delamination but it does happen

I took a class with Ray Rybar. You can see the highlights here on my Instagram -
Forge weld

I do not have a power hammer. I use my post vise initially to squeeze, then hammer by hand and then A rolling mill to draw out.

I don’t use borax, I have a welder weld shut the billet all around

Thoughts-
You are not at welding heat or not long enough . The reducing flames coming out that far might indicate not enough fuel pressure and not enough heat.

How long do you hold at welding heat? The lemon yellow color.


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Just weld around the perimeter of the billet before forge welding. Arc, or mig. You have plenty of heat. Switch to a core steel with less chrome in the composition. Easy, peasy. Normalize, cycle to refine the grain, anneal, and it’s ready.

Hoss
 
H HSC /// - I hold at that color for about 5min before doing the first light taps. I see the pic of your forge I’d assume is getting to welding heat with no crazy flames coming off so I’ll have to tinker around with mine a bit!

D DevinT - I’ve been avoiding the full seam weld to see if I can do without it but yeaaa I think it’s time I try that. I also have some 26c3, you think that’d be easier for the core? If so would parks 50 work for that?
 
I’ve been avoiding the full seam weld to see if I can do without it but yeaaa I think it’s time I try that. I also have some 26c3, you think that’d be easier for the core? If so would parks 50 work for that?
For San Mai fully welding around the billet really works good, and 25C3 will work MUCH better than the higher chrome alloys.

Low carbon 1018 might also pose more of a problem than 1084. 1018 might have a different expansion rate causing more problems with delams and warps. I hope Hoss will comment on the use of alloys with different rates of expansion.
 
Like others have said, try welding all the way around the billet.
Also, probably best to let it soak at welding temp for more then 5 minutes, you can’t really soak it for ”too long”
And lastly, you said you are cleaning the the metal, but are you making sure to get off all the pickling that might be on the surface? And if your not already, the best way to get clean steel is to degrease it, do just enough grinding to expose fresh metal, then stack and weld it all together trying not to get any gunk on the welding surfaces.
Hope that helps!
 
I imagine you are cleaning your steel before stacking your billet,like others have said might be more of a metallurgy problem.
if you have a welder you might try opening the flaws with a dremel + cut off disk and then backfill with weld.

I imagen that you are using the 1018 as a soft cladding,If able I recommend swapping that out for old wrought iron as it will weld to almost anything.
 
I figured it out!! Thank you all for the input. And I’d love to get my hands on some wrought iron, just don’t really know where I can source it at the moment. (If anyone knows a good source in TX I’d love to know)

The solution to my problem was eliminating the damn borax! I’ve done 5 San mai billets now with no delaminations during forging, thermal cycling, or quenching. All with clean cladding lines. I should have started forge welding without it as I feel like I’ve wasted 10+ knives but lesson learned I guess.

For experimental purposes I’ve even purposefully let scale totally consume a billet, (no borax), only to go back in the forge (which is also definitely reducing) and get it to welding temp and still come out with solid welds. Thanks again y’all

Andrew
 
I figured it out!! Thank you all for the input. And I’d love to get my hands on some wrought iron, just don’t really know where I can source it at the moment. (If anyone knows a good source in TX I’d love to know)

The solution to my problem was eliminating the damn borax! I’ve done 5 San mai billets now with no delaminations during forging, thermal cycling, or quenching. All with clean cladding lines. I should have started forge welding without it as I feel like I’ve wasted 10+ knives but lesson learned I guess.

For experimental purposes I’ve even purposefully let scale totally consume a billet, (no borax), only to go back in the forge (which is also definitely reducing) and get it to welding temp and still come out with solid welds. Thanks again y’all

Andrew
wagon wheels can be a good source inspect them though inspect any forge welds you can find if the wheels look like the have been re welded many times I tend to stay away from them I've found those wheels have poor quality iron.
can be a sign of the last smith working on they had trouble welding pieces meaning poor quality iron was used to make repairs or the whole wheels at times. you might be able to pick some up local by searching facebook market.
 
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