Recommendation? Sharpening questions - product recommendations.

Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
268
Two quick ones here. Besides being unskilled enough to get a little bevel creep when sharpening I have two issues.

1. I have a Lansky Sapphire Stone. Every single knife I have used it on, it brings it to a mirror finish, then the knife wont cut anything. No slice, no dice, no push cut, nothing. I called Lansky and explained, they said it may be defective and they'd replace. But I wanted to check here and see if anyone has had any similar experiences or recommend any different techniques. I have used it on a Kershaw flipper, a Whüstof Classic paring knife, a Buck 110, and a small section of my ASHBM just to see if it would occur across the board instead of just cheap stuff. Same results every time. Afterward, about 3-4 passes with an extra fine, or stropping on the back of my belt almost instantly bring it back to cutting just fine.

2. Just looking for a recommendation on a good strop. My belt has another job to do... Hold my gut up. I mean, my pants up.

Thanks again everyone.
 
Flexxx Strops USA

Mine have lasted for years and work great :)
 
For a strop, I use a piece of leather glued to each side of a 1x3. Work sharp or a spyderco sharpmaker aren’t too bad. Maintaining the same angle is key.
 
Re: sharpening, it's one of the following:

A. You aren't right at the apex of the cutting edge. Try using a sharpie on the edge then sharpening with your stone and look right at the very edge with a jewelers loupe. If the edge is still colored, then your polishing behind it and need to raise the angle.

B. The particle size of the stone is too fine. If you can polish an edge with it to a mirror, then chances are you need something more abrasive to work the steel prior to shining it up.

C. You are rounding the edge with technique or pushing a wire edge back and forth. Try cutting gently straight down at a 90 degree angle into a piece of wood (draw the edge slowly across the wood) to knock off the burr and then finish with the stone or the strop.

You might have some success finishing by hand on a ceramic hone or the flat bottom of a ceramic coffee cup. Rest the edge on the ceramic, raise the spine just enough until you can feel the edge trying to bite the ceramic when you ever so gently push the knife forward, then lower the spine just a hair and complete the honing motion on both sides.

Since you can get it cutting with a strop, I'm guessing it's (a) and because of the convex edge you may be missing the apex just so.

Personally, I like getting a knife very sharp on a lower grit stone (100-400) prior to polishing. Once you get the geometry and symmetry right, then move to a mirror if it suits you.
 
Re: sharpening, it's one of the following:

A. You aren't right at the apex of the cutting edge. Try using a sharpie on the edge then sharpening with your stone and look right at the very edge with a jewelers loupe. If the edge is still colored, then your polishing behind it and need to raise the angle.

B. The particle size of the stone is too fine. If you can polish an edge with it to a mirror, then chances are you need something more abrasive to work the steel prior to shining it up.

C. You are rounding the edge with technique or pushing a wire edge back and forth. Try cutting gently straight down at a 90 degree angle into a piece of wood (draw the edge slowly across the wood) to knock off the burr and then finish with the stone or the strop.

You might have some success finishing by hand on a ceramic hone or the flat bottom of a ceramic coffee cup. Rest the edge on the ceramic, raise the spine just enough until you can feel the edge trying to bite the ceramic when you ever so gently push the knife forward, then lower the spine just a hair and complete the honing motion on both sides.

Since you can get it cutting with a strop, I'm guessing it's (a) and because of the convex edge you may be missing the apex just so.

Personally, I like getting a knife very sharp on a lower grit stone (100-400) prior to polishing. Once you get the geometry and symmetry right, then move to a mirror if it suits you.

I haven't tried the sharpie idea, I always forget about it.

Skipping ahead to post C. I just do everything by hand as it is now. The "Lansky system" is too cumbersome for me to deal with and not as precise as I would like it to be, but you can only ask so much from a guide. I don't have anything (currently) with a convex grind. Everything is hollow ground, V ground, and one chisel grind.

Back to your A. B. C. - A, you are definitely spot on about why I am getting bevel creep, it's annoying, but it is really slight, and I'm getting better /sigh. B, I have not gone from extra course all the way to fine on my ASHBM (no need to), I just used the fine, then the "Sapphire Stone". Same problem on everything as I described. Shaving sharp, then as soon as that ceramic hone of theirs starts to polish up the edge nothing it touches will cut anything. To the point it has me wondering why people want a mirror polished bevel when I can't cut anything. It turns knives into hammers. C, I've seen many people clean their burr off on a piece of wood while sharpening. I have never tried it, I will. It makes a lot more sense than trying to get rid of it by sharpening the other side creating another wire...

I do really appreciate the knowledge and will take a couple of those suggestions for sure. This Sapphire Stone though... I really can't tell if it's something I am doing or it's just defective. I spent about 40 minutes on the phone with Lansky before posting here and they quizzed me to death. Then said it sounds defective and offered to replace it. I told them I'd post about it in the forums before replacing it as I know sharpening can be ruined very easily and may have nothing to do with their stone.

I agree with you about getting a knife very sharp on lower grit stones. I can get stuff ridiculously sharp on the medium stone that I think is around 250. The fine is I believe 800, but I'm not sure so 600-1000 in that range, and by the time you get there, I can't really see much of a need to go any further. That's why I'm so confused with this Sapphire Stone deal. I don't know if it's something I'm doing, or the product itself. I feel like I'd prefer to just go to something like a 6000-8000 grit stone over this thing. Then again, without ever successfully having a knife with a mirror bevel polish be able to cut anything, I'm still curious about what I'm missing out on - if anything. The tiny micro serrations left behind that you can see under magnification when using higher grit stones seem (in my head) to make more sense than a mirror.

Also, I forgot to add it in the original post, but instead of a strop, my kitchen steel... A few light passes (10 a side) on that after the Sapphire Stone makes a hammer will have it back to shaving sharp again.

Thanks again for the tips. If this reply helped further explain my difficulties, feel free to tell me other stuff I'm doing wrong. I'm well aware it could still be user error.
 
If you decide you still want the mirror you can get yourself there by coaxing a little rouge, mother's mag, or diamond spray onto coarse leather and then keep stropping the way you do. From the above post it sounds like the sapphire may be hard enough to be rolling your edge over. Some very fine stones I have are nice and soft. Ymmv on steel type though and thank you for sharing as well.
 
as for the polish, Lansky sells a leather strop to go with their system, but I'd like to ask you, why do you want mirror polish? Most knives perform better with some tooth.

I just found this post which I hadn't seen before trying to figure out this Sapphire Stone deal... It pretty much captures exactly what I was trying to get at in #5 in this thread. For me, I haven't been able to produce evidence that the mirror polish is "better".
 
Do you have a budget for a sharpener? I highly recommend the Wicked Sharp. It's very easy to get really great and repeatable edges. The other sharpener I use is the Ken Onion Worksharp. It's a really quick system, but you run the danger of rounding your tip if you're not careful.
 
I don't polish. It has never worked for me. I rarely use anything other than a coarse stone or diamond hone, then finish with a brown Spyderco ceramic. I have a Flexx strop. It works. But I don't like strop finishes either. I'll use it occasionally on convexed Busses or Fallknivens that I have. But most of the time I'll even use the brown Spyderco even on those. It just cuts better.
 
I’m getting better at maintaining that angle on my homemade stropping device. I cut a rough leather belt into strips, and glued them to a wood backing.

And It’s like the old line - “how do I get to Carnegie Hall?” Practice, practice, practice. I also have damned good success with the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup. PS - Drink the coffee before stropping.
 
I finally stepped up for a Wicked Edge Pro Pack 1 and it’s well worth it for me. I was pretty horrible at using wet stones, diamond stones, and pocket sharpeners. Everything was ugly before the Wicked Edge lol.

Wish I could be helpful, sorry...
 
I just found this post which I hadn't seen before trying to figure out this Sapphire Stone deal... It pretty much captures exactly what I was trying to get at in #5 in this thread. For me, I haven't been able to produce evidence that the mirror polish is "better".
a mirror polish is for things like looking pretty and straight razors. For most general use, it isnt needed.
 
Back
Top